Finding Rooftop Gardens in Tokyo

Rooftop gardens in Tokyo are a welcome respite from the busy bustling streets. But many people don’t know about them. When I had a day to myself, with my hubby was sick in bed, I recalled a friend telling me that they were the only people on “a rooftop garden on top of a department store in Tokyo.” I set out to find the rooftop garden.

A plan to discover six rooftop gardens in Tokyo

It turns out that there are many rooftop gardens in Tokyo, and I decided to spend the day discovering a few. An internet search revealed a list of the “best rooftop gardens in Tokyo.” With the help of Google maps, I identified five reasonably close to each other by train and not too far from my hotel. A sixth garden, in Ginza, was further away. If I didn’t get there, I’d look for it another time.

I planned to start at Artre Ebisu, continue on to Meguro Sky Garden followed by Shibuya Parco, Miyashita Park and end at Tokyu Plaza, Harajuku. Having been in Tokyo for a few days, I felt comfortable catching trains, and having all day, could take my time, enjoy exploring and even get lost without getting stressed.

Artre Ebisu is closed

Rooftop gardens in Tokyo are mostly above department stores. Access is through through the store, as I soon discovered. Artre Ebisu, the closest rooftop garden to my hotel, and the first on my list, was not yet open. Instead of waiting around for half an hour, I changed plans and decided to start my exploration at the Meguro Sky Garden and return to Artre Ebisu at the end of the day.

Being spontaneous

One of the things I enjoy when setting out on a day of discovery is being spontaneous. Walking from the station to Meguro Sky Garden, I came across a walking path alongside a little stream gurgling through a carefully maintained garden. I took a detour and followed the path.

People posed for photographs in front of the trees laden with white cherry blossoms that arched over the stream. Locals exercised their dogs. Others walked hand in hand enjoying the crisp morning air. I stopped to watch two ducks paddling in the slowly flowing water.

Meguro Sky Garden

After strolling the length of the not very long path, I turned around and retraced my steps. Signs to Meguro Sky Garden led me to a busy multi-lane intersection and I was pleased there were traffic lights to help me cross the road. I looked in vain for the entrance and in the end asked a passer by for directions. Holding his two little pooches in check, he kindly told me to follow him. Only metres away, near the post office, he pointed to the lift entrance and told me to go up to the 5^th floor.

A circular garden

Shaped like a doughnut, the circular garden surrounds a sports field in the ‘doughnut hole’ a number of floors below. As I explored the garden, the joyful cries of young children enjoying their football practice echoed against the curved concrete wall.

Following the path, I passed a toddler’s day care group playing on the grass. Young families enjoyed the open space while others walked their dogs. Established trees lined the grassed areas, providing welcome shade for hot days. The only surprise was how few people there were enjoying the quiet greenery.

Apparently, you can see Mt Fuji from the garden in good weather. I didn’t see Mt Fuji, but that didn’t detract from my enjoyment of the garden. Lift access and ramped paths make the garden fully accessible to people in wheelchairs and children in strollers.

Being on a mission, I headed off for my next stop: Shibuya Parco Department Store.

Shibuya Parco Rooftop Garden

Fortunately, I had no time constraints as it took me a few goes to find Shibuya Parco. I wandered around Shibuya looking, unsuccessfully, for the department store. Google Maps struggled to locate me amongst all the tall buildings and I walked down the same street more than once. I even crossed the famous Shibuya Crossing so many times that it no longer held the awe that it inspires in many visitors.

Finally, I found the department store and took the lift to the tenth floor. The rooftop garden was a disappointment. The “Commune”, a café, where I’d hoped to enjoy a coffee, was closed as they prepared for an event later in the day. There were only a few other people in the long narrow garden of grass and trees. I expect it would be busier on a weekday when workers take a break from their desks at the office towering over the garden.

I did find a couple of things of interest

Walking up and down a few flights of stairs to ensure I hadn’t missed anything, I discovered my first street art in Tokyo. It was of some sort of alien monster, painted way up from the street on the cream bricks of a building across the way.

I discovered also the Nintendo shop, packed to the gunnels with shoppers. After the madness that seems to accompany those shops, the garden would be an oasis.

Being lunch time, the food hall at Shibuya Parco basement was equally busy. I went there to find a bug vending machine I’d read about. It turned out to be a small capsule vending machine. Not knowing what I was getting into, I fed coins into the slot and was rewarded with a black capsule. Inside I found a sealed plastic bag containing about five fried crickets.

With the capsule secreted in my backpack – I’d eat them later – I set out to find my next rooftop garden, Miyashita Park. On our first day in Tokyo, my Tokyo Greeter told me about Miyashita Park.

Getting to Miyashita Park

On my way there, I passed a group of fashionably dressed people being interviewed by a TV crew. Were they local pop stars, I wondered? Another group, dressed in bright green outfits, handed passersby samples of a new brand of mints. I popped one in my mouth and continued on.

Before taking the escalators to Miyashita Park rooftop, I explored the shopping centre. There, I found a number of specialty and designer shops and yet another promotion. This promotion had something to do with water and involved some sort of challenge with a prize at the end. I usually enjoy jumping in when there’s something different to experience, but the language barrier meant I had to pass this time.

I watched a dance class in action and, being on the lookout for interesting products sold from vending machines, discovered one selling boxed pieces of designer fabric described as handkerchiefs. Pulling out my credit card, I selected one prettily patterned in blues and greens.

When I got back to the hotel and opened the box, I discovered that ‘handkerchief’ was rather too large for a handkerchief. Perhaps this was an example of something being “lost in translation.” The cloth is more likely to be used in traditional Japanese gift wrapping.

I was pleasantly surprised to read that the company selling the decorated cloths, Heralbony, produces products with designs created by artists with intellectual disabilities.

Miyashita Rooftop Park

Miyashita Rooftop Park differs from other rooftop gardens in that it offers a range of sporting activities. I found kids climbing a rock wall, teens honing their skateboarding skills and a beach volleyball court surrounded by a high wire fence. There is also a Starbucks Café, designed to look like a petrol station on a country road.  

The park seemed to be a place for filming and photography. A young man posed for a photo shoot against the white background of the cafe wall. Wearing white sneakers, a black crop top covered by an oversized long grey jacket and loose white pants, a young girl, threw her head from side-to-side dancing energetically for a minute or so as her friend filmed her. Two teenage girls mimicked the dance moves of a video they were watching.

On the way to Tokyu Plaza, Harajuku

On the way to my next rooftop garden, I joined the throngs wandering through Harajuku. Standing at traffic lights, a group of go karts buzzed past. Before leaving for Japan, I considered signing up for a go kart ride through Tokyo’s streets. But then I decided against it. The go karts are small and the traffic in Tokyo heavy. What if I got left behind? Or got lost? But these drivers, wearing onesies, seemed to be having lots of fun. Perhaps next time I’ll be more adventurous.

I also passed yet another advertising promotion. This one for Johnnie Walker. The promotion required you to photograph the promotion, post the photo on Instagram with the hashtag #thewalkersintown and then pull the lever of a capsule vending machine to hopefully win a T-shirt. I watched for a while, but no one won anything more than a free drink.

Tokyu Plaza, Harajuku

When exploring a city, I am often surprised unexpected ‘treasures’. Tokyu Plaza, Harajuku is a case in point. The mirrored entrance is like a constantly changing kaleidoscope. People jammed the escalators taking selfies and watching mesmerised as the mirrors reflected the colourful moving scene.

Leaving the Instagrammers to their selfies, I took the lift up to the sixth floor and inched my way past the queue for Starbucks to get to the Tokyu Plaza Harajuku rooftop. Also known as the Omohara Forest the garden was a hive of activity. A compact area, it is filled with established trees surrounding a sort of amphitheatre. Young people sat on the tiered seating enjoying their coffee in the sunshine.

When I visited, a small artisanal market sold craft beer, granola, hand painted watercolour postcards, and snacks. Gentle music provided a quiet respite from the throngs of people below.

Being on a mission, I reluctantly left Tokyu Plaza for Artre Ebisu.

Artre Ebisu

Quite by accident, I had saved the best garden for last. And yet there were surprisingly few people enjoying the small but beautifully designed garden. An oasis of herb and cottage styled garden beds radiate out from a central circular bed.

A couple of people pottered in their allotments to the side of the established garden. One man sat reading in the sun. Another couple chatted over coffee and cake bought from the store below. Two identically dressed little girls chased each other along the garden paths.

What a fun day! Having a mission to discover five of Tokyo’s rooftop gardens, I experienced so much more of Tokyo. I didn’t make it to Ginza 6 but hoped to get there another day.

Ginza 6 Rooftop Garden

I did make it to Ginza 6. The garden, on the thirteenth floor, offers 360-degree views of the Tokyo skyline. It too provides an underutilised haven from the hustle and bustle below. I stood mesmerized as I watched the rotating mannequins in the Uniqlo Flagship store. On a perimeter walk, I discovered a small shrine and chatted to a couple who brought their coffee and cake up to the garden for morning tea. What a good idea. Next time!

Instead, I decided to return to nearby Nissan Crossing where I’d bee told I could have a coffee with my chosen image printed on the crema.

Tokyo’s rooftop gardens gave me a purpose

Seeking out six rooftop gardens in Tokyo took me to places I might never have visited, and I saw interesting sights along the way. Since returning home, I’ve discovered there are many more rooftop gardens in Tokyo. When I return to Tokyo, I’ll be looking out for them.